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ReviewWednesday, January 7, 2009
Ghirardelli Holiday Squares
I checked through plenty of stores and found Walgreen’s had the best selection by the time the 75% off discount came around. This is when I jump on items I only eye at full price and then hem and haw over at half off. One was this Ghirardelli Squares Limited Edition Holiday Chocolate Assortment. Full price was $8.99, so $2.24 for over nine ounces of chocolate sounded like a great deal even if it was seasonally themed. The assortment includes Peppermint Bark, Egg Nog and Chocolate Pecan Pie.
Ghirardelli, I think, is known for their Peppermint Bark. It’s one of the few brands that dependably makes the stuff and actually uses cocoa butter for their white chocolate. The construction of the square is pretty simple. A milk chocolate base layer is covered with a minted white chocolate studded with little crunchies. The scent isn’t overpoweringly minty, which probably saves the other chocolates in the bag from tasting like mint, too. The texture of the chocolates is smooth and silky, very sweet but not achingly so. The little crunchies in the white chocolate aren’t crushed candy canes though, they’re corn flake bits (colored red). The crunch is a bit more cereal than hard candy but still puffy. It’s kind of odd that this sort of confection isn’t available year round, but since Ghirardelli has been bringing it back faithfully each winter, I shouldn’t complain.
Of the three flavors in the bag, this was the one that sold me on it: Egg Nog. It’s just extra vanilla-y white chocolate (with real cocoa butter) and a visible dash of nutmeg. I love the flavors of egg nog, but never really cared for sweet or thick drinks so the idea of a solid, melt-in-your-mouth version of it is ideal for me. The square is a creamy yellow color and smells like nutmeg. The white confection is sweet but pretty smooth and has the woodsy blast of nutmeg and tastes, like, well, Egg Nog. It could use a little more vanilla and maybe a slight hit of rum. A real winner, if only because no one else makes a plain old white chocolate with nutmeg bar. Truffles, yeah, but not just a block of white chocolate. Great idea, well done, bring it back next year and I’ll probably buy it before it goes on clearance.
One of the reasons I thought that this review, even at this late date, would still be of value is that the Chocolate Pecan Pie is not a limited edition item. It’s available now as an individual bar or in single-flavor bags of the Squares. (Also, I don’t think Pecan Pie has a season.) This little milk chocolate square smells wonderful, like maple, hot chocolate and caramel. The milk chocolate is smooth, though plenty sweet. Mixed in is a light crunch of toffee coated pecan bits. They have a little salty hit and of course the caramelized & buttery crunch of pecans. (The photos make it look like the chocolate is bloomed, I don’t think it was, I think it was the fatty pecans messing with the sheen of the chocolate. Mmm, fatty pecans.) Overall, the array is fun and something I feel comfortable eating out of season at the moment. Especially because I love individually wrapped squares. A bonus is that a sandwich of the Egg Nog & Chocolate Pecan Pie actually go pretty well together. (But the Peppermint Bark doesn’t work with either.) The only thing that really bugged me was that the ingredients weren’t listed separately for each of the squares. I was able to get the ingredients for the Peppermint Bark because it’s sold separately, but I really like to know what’s in items that I’m able to choose from a dish. Related Candies
POSTED BY Cybele AT 10:07 am Tuesday, January 6, 2009
Coffee Rio
It’s also fun to carry around a little candy in your pocket that emulates that feeling. I’ve been eating Coffee Rio since I can remember developing a taste for coffee sometime around the age of ten or so. I think the first time I had one, I thought they were coffee flavored Tootsie Rolls and was a little startled to find a hard caramel (much like Pearson’s Coffee Nips). Coffee Rio are made by Adams & Brooks, which is based right here in my home city, Los Angeles, California. While they may be hard to find elsewhere in the country, I see them just about everywhere around here.
The candy is pretty simple. A hardened caramel flavored with real coffee. Though it contains quite a bit of milk products, it tastes more like black coffee with a bit of sugar than coffee & cream (which is what Pearson’s Nips are like - but they’re also Kosher and Coffee Rio isn’t). The little rods are wrapped in a simple twisted mylar. I got this jumbo bag at Trader Joe’s for $2.69 for the bag, which I thought was a pretty good deal. They boast on the package that there are no artificial flavors, colors or preservatives. (But there is some lightly hydrogenated soybean oil rather low on the list of ingredients.) The texture is very smooth. They dissolve nicely and soften a bit as well (yes, you can chew them at some point, but also risk cementing your teeth together). The flavor is rich and like a mellow mocha java. At the start sometimes there’s a hint or charcoal and bitterness, but that fades away as the other woodsy coffee flavors come in. Rating: 8 out of 10
One of the things I noticed about Kona coffee was its extreme dark acidic punch, even when not given the Italian roast treatment. As Kona coffee is extremely expensive, most is sold as a blend. In the case of the Kona Blend Coffee Rio it’s only 10% Kona coffee.
These seems to capture that molasses & tangy bite really well. It’s not as sweet but no more bitter than the original Coffee Rio. I also noticed that these were a bit softer, so much so that I was able to chew them after warming them. I love that! Even better, I got the bag at the 99 Cent Only store for a buck. Rating: 9 out of 10
There’s pillowy cloud on the front of the package that reinforces that these are soft. The ingredients, oddly enough, are identical to the other Coffee Rio, so it must be all in the process to create this softer version. The package outside looks similar, but once I dumped out the pieces I realized that these are a bit different.
First, they’re bigger. They’re the same length, but have a greater girth than their hard brethren. Second, they’re wrapped in foiled paper. I’m guessing this is to keep them well sealed from moisture. They have a wonderful sweet & woodsy scent, less milky than the others. The chew is very soft, softer than a Tootsie Roll, more like a chewy fudge. It’s a little bit grainy and I realized that this is a “short caramel” instead of being a “wet caramel.” Short caramel is slightly grainy, crystals have been allowed to form. It keeps its shape really well and provides an easy “bite”. A wet caramel is stringy and smooth and lacks the crystallization and can be very sticky and possibly runny. I’d hoped this was a slightly softer Kona Blend. The chew is soft and pleasant, but the light grain to it interrupted the creamy notes from the milk products. The coffee flavor was slightly acidic and tangy and lacking the coffee punch of the other hard varieties. I give it a pass. Rating: 6 out of 10 Now I realize that I’d really like Tootsie to make Coffee Sugar Babies with chewy centers like the Kona Blend Coffee Rio. I don’t know if these have caffeine in them or how much, but I suspect so, since they used to offer a decaf version. I can’t imagine it’s very much though. I sent an email to Adams-Brooks asking about it and I’ll update if I find out. Related Candies
POSTED BY Cybele AT 9:47 am Monday, January 5, 2009
Moser Roth Chocolate
I discovered for myself then what all the buzz about Aldi markets was about. Like Trader Joe’s (owned by the same family), Aldi has “house brands” of confections. I sampled quite a bit of their Choceur (Luxury Mini Chocolate Bars and Coffee & Cream) already so when my mother offered to send me some more, I took her up on the offer. Moser-Roth is a German chocolate company, and I couldn’t find much on them except that they’ve been around since 1902 and most recently were bought up by Storck (who make Werther’s, Toffeefay, Riesen and Mambas) in 2007 - well, that’s what the German Wikipedia says, the Storck website makes no mention of it. I’ve never seen them anywhere but Aldi here in the United States. (Maybe someone who knows German better can help out with that, even the translators don’t make it much clearer whether Aldi just has them under contract or bought them.)
The packaging is one of my favorite styles. It’s a paperboard box/sleeve that holds a hefty 4.4 ounces but packaged in five smaller single portion bars. Each little bar is wrapped in a light paper-backed foil. It doesn’t say much on it, not even what kind of bar it is, just Privat Chocolatiers and then on the side it has a little warning: may contain traces of nuts and/or dairy products.
The little bars are the perfect weight, as far as I’m concerned, each is .88 ounces and about 145 calories. The scent is a light woodsy and coffee aroma. The color was a little dead, a little on the gray side of brown instead of red. It has a distinctive snap and crunch, I was concerned it would be chalky. But it melts nicely. It’s a little tangy but not fruity and buttery - kind of like cashews or pistachios. As a little indulgence they’re extremely satisfying. I didn’t feel the need to start another bar after the first one for several days. Price: $1.89
Like the dark, this little sleeve holds five .88 ounce individually wrapped bars. Part of the description goes like this: In this variety, bits of buttery golden toffee are encased in fine milk chocolate made from select cocoa varieties. This extraordinary combination gives the smooth chocolate its refined crisp, making it pure enjoyment for chocolate lovers.
Like most milk chocolates, this had a much softer snap than the dark chocolate. The bar was pristine, nicely tempered and glossy smooth. The little nuggets of toffee were pretty easy to spot even before I took a bite. It smells rather sweet and milky. The bite is soft and immediately sweet and creamy with a strong dairy flavor. The toffee crunches are exactly that, crunches with a distinct buttery flavor that made me think they were butterscotch flavor for a while it was so strong. The velvety milk chocolate was a bit sweet for me, though I liked the slightly salty crunch, I would have prefered just a little less sugar here. This bar is rather similar to the Dove Peanut Toffee Crunch (though obviously no peanuts here). But it’s also a bit of a better deal if the price on these is the same as the dark one. Price: unknown
The box is nicely made but perhaps a little downscale for what’s actually inside. The photo doesn’t give a good sense of the scale here. The box is 4.5” across and 2.5” tall. The height made more sense once I opened it. Inside each little truffle is wrapped in foil & tissue, with a little gather at the top. It reminded me of some Caffarel Eggs I got from Williams-Sonoma after Easter last year (never reviewed, just photographed & eaten).
The little eggs are, well, little. They’re molded with the name Moser-Roth on one side and little squirlies all over. They’re about 1.25” tall. The wrappings protected every last one of them. Ingredients:
This is pretty much the same as the Lindt Lindor 60% Extra Dark I’ve never seen high fat milk powder, but it sounds awesome. It was easy for me to bite them gently along the seam to cleave them in twain. Inside there’s a chocolate creme. The outer shell is a nicely smooth very dark chocolate with a distinct bitter edge to it. The cream filling is less flavorful but achingly silky. Like the Lindor 60% Dark Truffles and some other vegetable oil based truffles, they’re a little “empty” tasting. But in the case of these the proportions are more equal with the chocolate shell and filling, so I got more flavor from them. As a little indulgence they’re also pretty low in calories - only 52 each versus the 70 for a Lindor ... simply because of the size. If there’s an Aldi near you, these are a great Valentine’s or Easter treat. (I don’t know if they were a Christmas item or an every day one.) Price: unknown Related CandiesTuesday, December 30, 2008
Askinosie White Chocolate (Plain, Nibble & Pistachio)
I was more than intrigued when Askinosie, a bean to bar, fair trade chocolate maker right here in the United States came out with their white chocolate, mostly because it’s made with goat’s milk instead of cow’s milk. But the fascinating aspects don’t end there. It’s single origin, contains no soy lecithin or even any vanilla. The Askinosie Soconusco White Chocolate Bar isn’t white. It’s the color of butterscotch pudding. It smells a bit gamier than other white confections - kind of like erasers and marscapone. I was expecting a texture of pure bliss, after all, this is un-deodorized cocoa butter, so it would have the texture of chocolate, the earthier hint of the cocoa solids that were once there and then the wonderful base of goat’s milk to boost it up and moderate the necessary sugar. Instead it’s a bit grainy but it’s a sugary grain. It still has a wonderful mouthfeel and is rather cool on the tongue. But it wasn’t quite a buttery solid goat’s milk that I was hoping for. While I say that intellectually, I ate about a third of the bar pondering these few paragraphs.
The other two bars are far more interesting: White Chocolate Nibble Bar - I thoroughly enjoyed my first Askinosie Nibble bars which were based on the Jose del San Tambo beans. All of the white bars are Soconusco beans of the Trinitario variety from Mexico. (Not my favorite in the dark version either.) Like the dark nibble bar, the cacao nibs aren’t mixed in with the chocolate. Instead they’re just tossed on the bottom as the bar is molded. Personally, I prefer integrated elements. This whole “topping” thing means that the nibs aren’t completely surrounded. That said, the nibs are fun. They obviously carry a huge amount of chocolate flavor punch in them. In this case they have a bit of a smokey and woodsy flavor to them and it really balances out the sweetness of the white chocolate. The texture variation is also remarkable. The nibs are crunchy, the white chocolate cool and the graininess I complained about earlier is unnoticeable. White Chocolate Pistachio Bar This was the star, the perfect combination of the above texture and flavor profile. The addition of some lightly toasted & sparingly salted pistachios provided some crunch but mostly a grassy brightness. It balanced out the twang of the goat’s milk without making it sweeter, instead it just made it more flavorful. Askinosie has also just launched a dark milk chocolate which is 52% cacao of the same Soconusco single origin, fleur de sel and goat’s milk. Many people who suffer from lactose intolerance can digest goat’s milk without difficulty, so this new line of goat’s milk products from Askinosie, as well as the fact that they don’t use soy may be just the ticket for those with food sensitivities. My hesitation with them, besides the fact that I haven’t seen them in stores, is that they’re very expensive at $10.50 a bar. (The regular dark chocolate bars are $8.00 to $8.50.) Related Candies
POSTED BY Cybele AT 11:44 am Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Theobroma Chocolate y Maiz
This year it was from Theobroma Chocolatier, a family run Albuquerque confectionery shop. There were quite a few items in the bag but this has to be the best among them (and it was hard to chose which one to profile). The package doesn’t list what they are, but a little note in the bag let me know that this is their Chocolate y Maiz. For those who don’t know Spanish, that’s Chocolate and Corn. These rustic looking disks are huge. At about 3.5 to 4 inches across, each weighs over an ounce (I didn’t weigh them, I’m just guessing). They’re a lovely glossy dark chocolate with a caramel colored chocolate striping which really saves the appearance.
The chocolate is mellow, a semi-sweet it has some nice fruity tones, only a slight dry finish. The tempering and snap is great and the chocolate has a smooth, creamy melt. The star here is the inclusion of corn flakes. That’s it. Just a big plop of dark chocolate with corn flakes in it. The corn flakes are crunchy and have a great malty flavor with a little salty and corny taste to it. They’re wonderfully satisfying - so much so that just a half of a disk was plenty. I’ve had these for almost a month and they’re still not gone. (But it was a big bag!) But they also keep exceptionally well and pair with other items easily. They’re a bit of a change of pace from the Ritter Sport Knusperflakes (Corn Flakes) bar which is milk chocolate. Related Candies
POSTED BY Cybele AT 10:42 am Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Spoonfudge
I don’t consider myself a fudge connoisseur, though I certainly eat it when it’s presented to me but it rarely appears here on the blog. Fudge is basically a combination of sugar, milk and butter and usually chocolate. It’s boiled to the soft ball state and then beaten as it cools in order to form a melt-in-your-mouth crystalline structure. I’m rather fond of crumbly fudge, more like penuche, but it also has to have a fair amount of fat in it to. I’m not even sure if what I prefer falls into the “good fudge” category. Like toffee & pornography, I can’t define it, but I know it when I see it.
Spoonfudge! solves that problem. Billed as creamy, dream fudge, each little jar holds five ounces and includes a little plastic spoon for immediate indulgence. While the package seems small at first, I remember that I often order fudge in quarter pound increments. Each order is two jars, as well, which can be mixed & matched by flavor. It’s great for keeping it fresh and of course resealing it when you can’t finish it all. Yes, it’s much like eating frosting out of the tub. (But much better, have you ever read the ingredients in those?)
I got an assortment of four flavors, which change often, so you’ll just have to keep an eye on their website. Just Chocolate for Me! is plain chocolate. The glossy look of it in the jar was quickly broken by my spoon. It scoops easily with the little plastic one, though I prefer a metal one that I keep in my candy tasting kit for just such occasions. It smells like butter, chocolate and sugar. Kind of like Disneyland. The soft bite also dissolves nicely on the tongue, not too fatty, but very sweet. The chocolate flavor is definitely not just “cocoa” but full bodied chocolate. The texture was microfine. I like a crumbly fudge, so this suited me very well.
What I was hoping for was chocolate with a hint of spices like cinnamon, nutmeg and perhaps chili or black pepper. Instead it’s just chocolate with a zap of cinnamon. When I say cinnamon I don’t mean that powdery stuff you sprinkle on sticky buns. I mean cinnamon kapow that’s in Jolly Ranchers. It’s an interesting combo because the cinnamon flavor is so clear and precise but it lacks all that fun woodsy, complicated stuff that the little curls of bark do for me. But then thinking about it, this definitely felt unique. How many other products have I had that delivered that other cinnamon & chocolate combo? Plenty. This was the first that really had that cinnamon fire plus chocolate. I must have liked it, because it was the second jar I finished. Yeah, it tastes like Williams-Sonoma smells this time of year, but hey, I dig that.
It has a pleasant orange scent, not overly zesty. This one was less chocolatey that the rest and much creamier and a bit fluffy. It was a lot like frosting and so sweet, I just couldn’t eat much of it. The flavor, beyond the sweetness had a good rounded citrus flavor. The chocolate just wasn’t cutting through the throat burning sugar though.
It was wonderfully soft and scoopable, a good mouthfeel. The raspberry flavor is more scent than flavor. There’s not berry tang in here, certainly no seeds. It’s all floral and flavor and somewhere in the back of it all was a little bitter aftertaste that I think was from the food coloring. Spoonfudge! comes in a huge array of flavors. Earlier this year it was a bunch of other candy mix-ins like Butterfingers. Right now everything is holiday themed (and rum sounds like a good combo). I think I’m probably a fudge purist. I probably only like chocolate fudge and pecan pralines. I didn’t care for the fruity ones, but liked the more chocolatey ones. Your experiences will probably vary. There are some superb selling points with Spoonfudge. They’re gluten free but also nut free. (It’s hard to find fudge makers that don’t use other nuts.) The packaging is pretty light and spare (reuseable & recycleable #1 PETE jar) and makes it easy to reseal and share. Shipping is completely affordable and other products at the webstore include a whole line of gluten free cooking & baking mixes. (And even some dairy free ones, too.) Related Candies
POSTED BY Cybele AT 2:55 pm Friday, December 19, 2008
Christmas Mint Round UpI’m buried in mints! So here’s a huge roundup of all the mint items in my queue that I wanted to get through before Christmas.
Inside the tin is a fluted liner that holds a large handful of soft, white candy-shelled mints. Each is about the size of a kidney bean. The tin says that there are no artificial flavors or preservatives. I think they shy from the “all natural” part because the white shell is created with titanium dioxide. They reminded me of the classic Dutch Mints and luckily I had some of those around for comparison.
Jelly Belly makes a large variety of Dutch Mints. They come in different colors, these are all hot pink and individually wrapped, though you can also get them in the stark white, pastel mint colors or right now in the Christmas assortment of red, green and white. (And they’re Kosher.) The Dutch Mint is the size of a garbanzo bean but my guess is the same mass as the TJ’s. They’re both the same construction, a soft mint fondant with a thin layer or dark chocolate then a crispy candy shell. Both are lovely and addictive. The Trader Joe’s retails for $1.22 an ounce. The Jelly Belly can go for anywhere from $.70 an ounce for the small 2.9 ounce bag to $.56 for a one pound tub (check out Cost Plus World Market). Jelly Belly Dutch Mints get a rating of: 8 out of 10 These also closely resemble the York Mints that also come in a tin.
I’ve always loved After Eight Mints, which are a flowing mint fondant in an ultra thin square. I used to love how they came in individual glassine envelopes, like a little file box of deliciousness. Of course After Eights are made by Nestle now and not nearly as good as I remember them on top of the controversies that they’re made from questionably sourced chocolate. The Fair Trade movement has been working to bring families and communities out of poverty through fair payment for goods & services. Divine Chocolate has been doing this since 1998 in the United Kingdom and recently expanded into the United States. Not only do they have tasty bars they also have addition treats like these Divine After Dinner Mints.
The mints are nicely sized for two bites at about 1.5” square. The mild semi-sweet chocolate is crisp and cracks well. The mint fondant center is creamy and minted only slightly so as not to overpower the chocolate. The dark chocolate has some berry and fruity tones that combine well with the cool peppermint flavors. I’ve seen these at Whole Foods (at an endcap display for hostess giving), so they should be pretty widely available this season. Divine After Dinner Mints get a rating of 7 out of 10. Creme de Menthe Altoids have been out for a few months, though it took me a while to find the variety that isn’t covered in chocolate. I realized that I might have seen them before, the green of the package is only slightly lighter than the Spearmint boxes. These were on sale for $1.50 to boot! Basically the flavor of these is like a Peppermint TicTac. It has a powdery vanilla scent, softer than a harsh peppermint and perhaps just a hint of licorice. But these are Altoids. Though they might start out mild, they do pack a much stronger kick later on. I like the flavor a bit better than the straight Peppermint if only because of the mix of aromas. Creme de Menthe Altoids get a rating of 8 out of 10.
Around this time of year, however, I see a lot of these See’s Peppermint Twists in candy dishes around the office. It took me a while, but I think I found out who makes them. There were two contenders: King Leo Soft Peppermint Candy or Bob’s Sweet Stripes. I saw this box of King Leo Soft Peppermint Candy at the 99 Cent Only Store and thought I’d give them a whirl. They were a dollar for 3.5 ounces.
I thought they were “butter mints” and read through this to see how I came to that conclusion:
So I was expecting a soft mint. Either crumbly soft or mushy soft. These were neither. They’re soft as in rounded and smooth, but after that they were not butter mints until I sucked on them for a while. Which is kind of the opposite of “soft from the moment you open the box”. Annoyance aside, they’re peppermint candies. They are airy and dissolve nicely and of course none of those hard candy sharp edges. They’re sweet and a bit less intense than a starlight mint and really pretty to look at. Like those English Soft Peppermints that were really made in the Netherlands, King Leo are made in Mexico. Kosher. King Leo Soft Peppermint Candy gets a 6 out of 10. POSTED BY Cybele AT 9:23 am Candy • Review • Christmas • Divine Chocolate • Jelly Belly • Trader Joe's • Wrigley's • Chocolate • Ethically Sourced • Fondant • Kosher • Mints • 6-Tempting • 7-Worth It • 8-Tasty • Mexico • United Kingdom • United States • 99 Cent Only Store • Ralph's • Thursday, December 18, 2008
Dove Milk Chocolate Pecan Pie Caramel Promises
I knew going in that these Dove Pecan Pie Caramel Promises in Silky Smooth Chocolate weren’t going to measure up to that, seeing how there was no hot buttered rum sauce and no pecans. These aren’t part of Dove Promises Desserts line, either. (Which currently includes Tiramisu & Bananas Foster.)
The Promises are wrapped in foil. Because this was a Christmas-themed box, I think some of the missives inside were holiday related, such as Joy toy ... you, Warmth on the inside can melt cold on the outside or Togetherness in itself is a holiday treat. They have a pleasant pecan aroma that smells a bit like Russian teacakes or shortbread. The milk chocolate shell is smooth and creamy and sweet. The caramel inside is thick and rich, with a strong woodsy pecan flavor ... a little over the top but effective at selling the whole “pecan pie” thing. I would have loved to have real pecans in here, but as a nutless Dove bite, it’s pretty tasty. Sweet, but with some strong coffee they’re going really quickly. Since they’re in Christmas packaging, look for these on the after Christmas sale, at 50% off they’ll be a great bargain. Related Candies
POSTED BY Cybele AT 10:04 am Page 125 of 257 pages ‹ First < 123 124 125 126 127 > Last ›
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Meticulously photographed and documented reviews of candy from around the world. And the occasional other sweet adventures. Open your mouth, expand your mind.
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