Most candy coated licorice is the same. They’re little snips of licorice laces covered in a hard candy shell. The exception might be Good & Plenty, which uses a thicker and softer licorice nib for coating. Now there’s a new version on the marketing called Wiley Wallaby Outback Beans with Chewy Black Licorice Centers.

Wiley Wallaby is the Australian Style licorice brand from American maker Kenny’s Candy. They’re known for making licorice twists in a rainbow of flavors, from Root Beer to Spearmint to Pina Colada.

I picked these up at the Fancy Food Show and was told they should be hitting the stores via wholesalers sometime later this month. This format is a generous 13 ounce tub, which makes it easy to serve right from the package then seal it back up.

The short little rods are about one half to three quarters of an inch long. They’re matte and bright - a mix of purple, hot pink and a slightly lavender white. The shell is not quite crispy and becomes grainy and cool when chewed. It has a light anise flavor to it, but the real licorice impact comes with the black licorice center. It’s a soft and chewy mix of molasses woodsy notes and clean and sweet licorice. (There’s real licorice extract in there plus anise oil.)

My only hesitation with these is that the pink ones use Red 40, and I just couldn’t stand the bitter aftertaste. (There was a hint of it in the purple ones, but not enough to dissuade me from eating them after I’d gone through the white ones.)

The consistently soft chew and well rounded flavor put these right up there with Good & Plenty. Even after keeping the tub around for several weeks with the seal broken, they were still fresh (try that with a theater box of Good & Plenty). The good news for vegans is that it’s all artificial colors and no glazes in there (and mostly natural every thing else).

The most exciting part of this new product line (and perhaps I’ve buried my lead) is the closest thing I’ve found to the classic Good & Fruity.

Since Hershey’s created their new version of Good & Fruity, which is no more than a crazy neon jelly bean, I’ve mentioned to more than one candy maker that there are still plenty of candy fans who long for a candy coated red licorice.

The Wiley Wallaby Outback Beans with Chewy Red Licorice Centers may fit that hole in the confectionery pantheon quite well.

The short little pieces come in three colors, a festive mix of orange, green and yellow. At the center of each grainy and not quite crunchy candy coating is a piece or red licorice.

I don’t know what flavor this red center is. At times I think it’s strawberry, but other times it’s a mild cherry. Whatever it is, it has a nice soft chew, a pleasant smoothness and a light tangy note of berries. The candy shell is very much like that on Good & Plenty. It’s smooth on the outside but not quite a hard crunchy shell, instead it becomes grainy and sweet. They’re quite satisfying and addictive to keep popping.

I expect these to be well-priced, as the Wiley Wallaby brand is usually less expensive than the true Australian imports. I also expect these to show up in bulk bins and probably stores that already carry the Wiley Wallaby line.

Related Candies

1. Walgreen’s Australian Licorice (Chocolate Covered)
2. Spearmint Licorice
3. Young & Smylie Traditional Licorice
4. Black Licorice Twists & Snaps
5. Good and Fruity
6. Kenny’s Licorice Pastels & Root Beer Twists
7. Good & Plenty (Fresh from the Factory)

On a cold winter morning we can all use a little toasty comfort.

ClaireSquares are a triple layer sandwich starting with a block of buttery shortbread, a layer or chewy caramel and a thick topping of dark chocolate. It was a big three inch by four inch block.

I don’t consider them candy, but I do pronounce them tasty and satisfying. I picked this one up at BiRite Market in San Francisco. Photo of package plus view the website here.

My mother sent me these Milk Chocolate Domino Cubes from Aldi before the holidays.

The package says: Gingerbread cookies with apple jelly and persipan coated with milk chocolate. I didn’t know what persipan was, but when I tasted it, it was a lot like marzipan. I looked it up and it pretty much is marzipan except it’s made with apricot kernels instead of almonds. Ultimately I wasn’t sure if these were candy or petit fours. I preferred the dark chocolate ones, the milk version (which photographed better) were very sweet and the gingerbread cake part just wasn’t spicy enough for me.

When I was at Miette Confiserie late last year I picked up a handful of little individually wrapped candies. One was a licorice caramel called Krema Batna.

I liked the idea of a licorice caramel, especially one that wasn’t artificially black. I also liked the wrapper, you can’t really see in the picture that it has a picture of a cougar on it (or some other large cat) that reminded me of some kind of high school mascot. (We were the Wildcats in Mechanicsburg.)

The chew was stiff and smooth with a great toasted sugar flavor mixed with a light anise. I’d love to have more, I’ve looked around on the internet and can’t find anyplace that carries them. I was even hoping to run into them at the Fancy Food Show.

Warning: today’s review contains a lot of math.

Whole Foods has been carrying Bissinger’s candies, they even have their own custom display in the bakery area of the Whole Foods I frequent. One of the items that caught my eye was this 100 Calorie Bar of Solid Milk Chocolate 38% Cocoa which sounded intriguing. It was only a dollar, so it’s a very low risk investment, especially at Whole Foods.

I knew going in that 100 calories of chocolate is a very small portion. In this case it’s only .63 ounces (18 grams). What I didn’t expect was how misleading the box would be about the actual size of the contents. The bar inside is in a cellophane sleeve that’s too big for it, so it’s crumpled at the sides - which kind of anchors it inside the box. When I shook it, it felt like the bar was taking up the whole box because it didn’t rattle around.

Here are some facts:

Dimensions of box: 4.25” long - 1.75” wide - .33” high = volume of 2.454375 cubic inches
Dimensions of bar: 3.33” long - 1.25” wide - .2” high = volume of 0.8325 cubic inches

Yes, 2/3 of that box is empty.

Aside from that, it’s an attractive bar. It’s segmented into four pieces, each marked with the 38, which I’m guessing is to represent the cacao content, not the fullness of the box.

The shiny and nicely molded milk chocolate has a soft bite with a powdered milk and sugar scent, maybe a little cheese twang to it. The melt is a little fudgy and sweet with a strong sour yogurt bite. The cocoa flavors are woodsy and rather limited. The sweetness burned my throat. The aftertaste is rather familiar, like Hershey’s Milk Chocolate. So if you love Hershey’s and wish you could pay twice as much for it but at least get all natural ingredients, this might be the stuff for you.

At about $25 a pound, I expect better chocolate.

The box also mentioned it has an ORAC value of 46 per gram (828 for the full bar). If you don’t know about Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity, you can read more on Wikipedia. For reference, the ORAC value of 100 calories of red beans is 13,727.

The box says that it’s Gluten Free, but it also says that it’s processed in a facility that uses milk, soy, peanuts, tree nuts, wheat and eggs. (Soy and Milk are present in the milk chocolate, of course.) This package does not say it’s Kosher. (You may recall my run-in with them last year about the Kosher status of their gummis.)

Related Candies

1. Bissinger’s Pink Grapefruit Gummy Pandas
2. Amano Milk Chocolate Ocumare
3. Trader Joe’s 100 Calorie Chocolate
4. Scharffen Berger Milk Nibby Bar
5. Hershey’s Miniatures
6. Rice Milk Chocolate Bars

E. Guittard Orinoco Milk Chocolate, a petite 2 ounce bar that comes in a pretty purple wrapper.

I’ve bought this bar several times now but I keep eating it instead of reviewing it. In short: it’s smooth and munchable. Much more on the side of fresh dairy flavors than the caramelized and dried milk notes of European dairy milk chocolate.

Package photo here.

Eat with your Eyes is a recurring feature where I just show you stuff I’ve photographed but probably won’t get around to reviewing. Feel free to share your reviews here of the candy if you’ve had it.

If the statistics braniacs are correct, you’re less likely to receive chocolate this year than a year when Valentine’s Day falls on a weekday. This is because the major heart-shaped confectionery purchasers are men and when the holiday falls on a weekend the celebrations are more likely to be date-related than object-related.

I picked up this box of Trader Joe’s Dark Chocolate Hearts with Rich Truffle Filling on a weekend (long before Valentine’s Day though). The box holds 7.05 ounces and 16 Belgian truffles. Well, the package calls them truffles, I’m not convinced as you’ll see in a moment.

The flat and simple box has a stylized cartoonish design on the front though the overall format is similar to the Belgian Fancies I bought before Christmas.

I like the overall design, it’s simple and spare and not so precious or frilly that it couldn’t work for either gender or as a gift between friends or family.  The box does and excellent job of protecting the candies, which were all shiny and flawless.

The hearts are nicely sized for a single bite. They’re about one and a half inches at the widest, about three quarters of an inch high.

The ingredients list for these non-flavored bonbons is extremely long. In my perfect world the definitions of things like ganache and truffle are pretty strict. A truffle is chocolate mixed with extra dairy fats like butter or cream. That’s it. There can be flavorings, inclusions and maybe even nut butters but then it becomes a bonbon with a truffle ganache base filling. The Belgian maker of these has things in here like corn syrup (third ingredient) vegetable oils (fourth ingredient) and some other things like glycerin, crystalline fructose, mono & diglycerides and citric acid.

The result of those ingredients is not so much of a mock ganache but something that I think of as really good chocolate frosting. The thing is, the reason to put all that extra fat into ganache is to make the melting point lower, so that it actually melts in your mouth quicker than chocolate. (Cocoa butter has a higher melting point than dairy butter.) Putting all those different oils in there just isn’t the same and things like corn syrup add moisture, which makes it chewy and gives it an almost-caramel like pull when it’s bitten.

Now, all that aside, they’re not bad to eat. The chocolate shell is rather sweet but very smooth. The flavors are berry and a little bit on the woodsy spice side. The semi-sweet shell plays well with the very sweet center. There’s a slight fudginess to it, I hesitate calling it a graininess but it simply tastes sugary instead of chocolatey. For a store bought box of chocolates, they’re not bad, but at $5 for a box I expect a little better. In fact, I wouldn’t mind paying an extra dollar for fewer ingredients and a more intense chocolate punch.

Related Candies

1. Trader Joe’s Belgian Chocolate Fancies
2. Valerie Confections: Pour Homme and Pour Elle
3. See’s Cinnamon (Hearts & Lollypops)
4. Trader Joe’s French Truffles
5. Choxie 3 Ounce Chocolate Bars
6. BonBonBars: Malt Ganache & Scotch

This is unfair. Pretty pictures of bad chocolate.

I’m a big fan of Aldi candies and chocolate and for the most part they’re far better than you’d expect for the price.

This is not one of those cases. The Grandessa Signature Origin Chocolate Assorted Sticks were in fact assorted and were clever little sticks of chocolate. (Package photo here.)

The Java milk chocolate tasted burnt and sour.

The Madagascar 72% was fruity smelling but so fatty and empty tasting that it was pointless as a chocolate flavor delivery device.

The Sao Thome 75% was bitter, dry and more like buttered charcoal than chocolate.

Eat with your Eyes is a recurring feature where I just show you stuff I’ve photographed but probably won’t get around to reviewing. Feel free to share your reviews here of the candy if you’ve had it.